´A masterpiece that recalls early James Salter´ Geoff Dyer, Observer
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.
William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Recalling his own apprenticeship to the world´s most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
´Breathtaking´ New York Times
´Luscious´ Ed Caesar, Guardian