List of Figures
Acknowledgements
Introduction
Methodology
Case Study Approach
Materials and Data Gathering
Internet-Mediated Research
Outline
1 Troubling Gender: On the Proliferation of Gender and the Performativity of Fashion
Sex, Gender, and Performativity
Trans* and the Proliferation of Gender
The Performativity of Fashion: Fashion’s System of Signification in Post-Postmodernity
2 Tracing Fluidity: Understanding Moments of Gender-Blurring Fashion
Moment I: Bohemians in the Nineteenth Century
Moment II: Female Masculinities in the 1920s
Moment III: Youth and Countercultures of the 1960s and 1970s
Moment IV: Ck One, Unisex, and Millennial Masculinities
3 Antigender Fashion; or, Why Can’t Girls Have Dicks and Boys Have Boobs?
Anti-Fashion and Subculture: Anti-Fashion as ‘Confrontational’ Dress
Anti-Fashion and Queerness: Anti-Fashion as Oppositional Dress
Anti-Fashion and Feminism: Anti-Fashion as Protest
Philosophical Perspectives on Anti-Fashion: A Dialectical Approach
From Anti-Fashion to Antigender Fashion
4 JW Anderson: The Architecture of Antigender Fashion
Millennial Masculinity and JW Anderson’s Beginnings
Moment I: (Re-)Building the Architecture of Man and Woman
Moment II: Out of Proportion or Fashioning the Grotesque Antigendered Body
Moment III: The Camp, the Carnival, the Surreal of Antigender Fashion
5 Alessandro Michele and Gucci: The Bricolage of Antigender Fashion
Gender Fluidity Goes Mainstream: The Making and Breaking of Gucci
Moment I: Gucci’s New Man – Antigender Fashion and the Floral Suit
Moment II: Time Leaps, Détournement, and Memory
Moment III: The Bricolage, the Cyborg, and the Post-Human of Antigender
6 Art School: Dressing the Queer and Antigendered Body
Designing with and within London’s Queer/Trans* Community
Moment I: Performing Fashion, Performing Queerness – Staging Antigender Fashion
Moment II: Antigender Bodies In-Between – Dressing Intersectionalities or the Trans*,
Ageing, Fat, and Disabled Body
Moment III: On Gothic Queer Cultures – the Uncanny Horror in Art School’s Antigender
Fashion
7 No Sesso: Styling the Black, Antigendered, and Afrofuturist Body
On Disidentification and Designing for an Inclusive Future
Moment I: Antigender Streetwear
Moment II: Reusing, Recycling, and Remembering
Moment III: Antigender and Afrofuturism
Conclusion
References
Index
